This photo of Murray Jones was taken near the top of the north face of the Eiger during a season that reshaped New Zealand climbing and Graeme’s own mountaineering path. In 1969, Sir Graeme and Murray became the first in the world to climb all six classic European north faces in a single season, along with eight other major routes. At a time when Kiwi climbers were known mainly as strong load carriers and fast movers through mixed terrain, Murray brought something new. He was a superb alpine rock climber, the technician who pushed New Zealand mountaineering into a new era. His ascents in the Central Alps and Dolomites proved what Kiwi climbers were truly capable of.
By the final day of 1970, the pair were such a strong team that even the South Face of Hicks, a climb that had turned back many great climbers, felt almost easy. Their partnership of trust, skill, and shared ambition helped lay the foundation for Graeme’s lifelong pursuit of challenge and adventure.
Today, on International Mountain Day, we honour Murray Jones, who passed away this week – his life, his legacy, and the immense impact he had on Sir Graeme Dingle and on New Zealand mountaineering.