In 1985, Sir Graeme Dingle was part of an ambitious expedition on the North Face of Mount Everest in Tibet.
Initiated by the New Zealand Alpine Club, the expedition came at a time when some believed another Everest climb could help reignite interest among younger climbers. This expedition was part of that push to inspire a new generation back into the mountains.
The expedition was deliberately split into three sub-teams to avoid the friction that often came with large expeditions. Dingle was the leader of Team Toyota. The goal was bold: establish a new route onto the West Ridge via the North Face.
Midway up the Northwest Ridge, Graeme made a critical decision. Rather than staying in an exposed camp, he insisted the team shelter inside a crevasse. It was a call made on instinct and experience (pictured here).
On the second night, the crevasse began to shake. A deep roar followed as a massive avalanche tore down the ridge, sweeping away the entire camp above, fixed ropes, tents, everything. Had the team stayed at camp, none would have survived.
After the avalanche, the expedition adapted, changing route to climb the centre of the North Face and establishing a camp at 7,300 metres. After establishing the camp, Graeme climbed alone several hundred metres up the Great Couloir. But this was as high as the expedition got as poor weather prevented any advance.
Everest itself held little attraction for Graeme by this point. It had become, in his eyes, a littered peak, stripped of much of its mystery. But he has always taken pride in the fact that it was a Kiwi who first climbed it and gratitude that that man became his friend. That, above all else, is what Graeme loves Everest for.
That same spirit of resilience and overcoming challenges lives on today through the Graeme Dingle Foundation.
Pictured: Mike Rheinberger, Dick Price, and Bruce Farmer taken by Sir Graeme Dingle. Mike Rheinberger later returned to Everest and successfully summited, but tragically died on the descent.